TrekDigest

Jaisalmer, Rajasthan

2011-10-15T23:26:00.094-06:00

Inside Fort Jaisalmer, view from a patio

Station in Jaipur

Jaisalmer in Rajasthan, India is near the border with Pakistan in the Thar desert. For security reasons, the airport isn't open. The remote location of Jaisalmer attracts fewer tourists, and this is part of its' tranquil charm. We left hectic Jaipur for Jaisalmer by train shortly after midnight and awoke next morning streaming through the Thar desert, with glimpses of peacocks along the tracks and wind generators in the distance.

We arrived in Jaisalmer, the Golden City, around noon. Fort Jaisalmer, built in 1156, rises on a sandstone ridge high above the desert. A third of the people of Jaisalmer still live in the old town inside the Fort. We stayed outside at the Hotel Fifu.

Jaisalmer Fort from Hotel Fifu

Hotel Fifu is in a rural neighbourhood within easy walking distance of the Fort. Above the guest rooms of this superb small hotel are several levels of comfortable dining and relaxation terraces with stunning views of the Fort and the surrounding desert.

In the Jain Temple

town Bhang shop?

Jain carvings

Jauhar handprints

We found Bobbi's Craft Shop on a narrow street on our first day.

Mr. Fifu hooked us up with local guide, Vivender, for a full day walk through the historic sites of Jaisalmer. We toured the Fort, old havelis, exquisite Jain temples, attended a Hindu celebration, and climbed up a turret to a patio for tea and views of the Fort and the desert beyond. What an interesting day.

Jaisalmer lies in the heart of the Thar desert. This is the land of snake charmers and camel caravans, where women wear bright neon scarves and dance with fire pots on their heads. The music is lively, crafts are colourful, the architecture medieval, and the people are friendly and unique with a rich culture.

Village near the camp

Mr. Fifu organized a safari by jeep through the desert, where we slept in canvas tents, with camels nearby, ready for trekking. We watched the sun set over sand dunes, an entrancing, peaceful experience. After dark, there was energetic and beautiful Rajasthani folk music and dancing around the campfire by local Kalbelia folk artists - a highlight!

(I copied a video from Youtube of Rajasthani gypsy dancing below. Check it out, it is similar to what we saw).

Talented dancer at our campsite.

We visited Jaisalmer in early March, midway through our 3 week trip through Rajasthan. There is an annual performing arts festival in Jaisalmer in early February, which would be spectacular to attend. Jaisalmer is fascinating in so many ways, and Hotel Fifu, too, was a special place. Summer is brutally hot in Jaisalmer, so check out the climate before you book - but go.

Our tents in the Thar Desert

After sundown, we were treated to fabulous local talent.

Thanks to Trivat Productions for the 'borrowed'Youtube video below.

Thar desert near Jaisalmer, Rajasthan

Hotel Arches in Fort Kochi

2010-09-06T10:58:00.017-06:00

Street scene near Hotel Arches

Terrace view

In Fort Kochi we began each day with breakfast on the serene rooftop terrace of our favourite hotel in Kerala, the Hotel Arches. The morning sky was always soft, breezes gentle, as the heat of the day had not yet set upon Fort Cochin. Through the treetops swooped tropical birds. In the distance we saw glimpses of the sea. This peaceful setting was perfect for an anxious traveller like me, new to India.

Das

On each of our 5 mornings on the rooftop terrace we were greeted by Das, a friendly dignified man, who brought us dark Keralan coffee, fresh juice and local fruits, eggs and toast, or a delicious masala dosa and coconut chutney. We dined within view of St. Francis Church, built in 1503, the oldest European church in India, and the original burial place of Vasco da Gama.

All of the staff at the Hotel Arches were considerate and sincerely kind. They arranged reliable transportation for us (Josie) from the airport and on to the tea plantations of Munnar. They quickly moved us to a lower floor, without request, upon seeing that I had injured my ankle - and they brought ice for the swelling- even at 3am.

The Hotel Arches itself was lovely in all ways. Rooms were large, perfectly clean, with air conditioning, TVs, and private baths. Free internet access was available in the hallway and there was an interesting collection of books for guests in the lobby.

There are fancier hotels in Fort Cochin, but I doubt that we will ever encounter the genuine sweetness of the staff we met at the Hotel Arches. The wonderful breakfasts, and the exceptional people at the Hotel Arches were a memorable part of our trip to Kerala. Thank-you Hotel Arches.

Balcony view and St. Francis Church

Cairo: Ancient Egypt

2010-07-25T18:34:00.021-06:00

our tickets

The Pyramids and The Egyptian Museum

We were in Cairo several years ago, for just a few days. We flew in from Athens at night, and as we approached Cairo the city lights seemed to go on forever. Cairo is the largest city in Africa, with over 6 million people, and another 10 million on the outskirts.

From the Pyramids at Cheops we could see the Cairo skyline. When we were there only the Second Pyramid (Giza) was open for internal viewing. The entrance door to the Pyramid was short and we walked bent over through the long dark narrow passage. The corridor ended in a rectangular cement-like room with a bit of old graffiti on the wall and one sarcophagus in the centre. It was mysterious. So old, so amazing.

We walked around the grounds in the blazing hot sun and had our pictures taken in front of the Sphinx. All in all, pretty spectacular.

Next day we went to the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities. It was jam packed like an overstuffed garage with impressive artefacts, giant statues of Pharoahs, furniture, coins, jewellery all from Ancient Egypt, the largest collection in the world. We met our tour guide, Moses, outside the museum. “Moses coming through “ he announced as he led us around the famous sights of the museum, barging ahead of tour groups. Moses was full of fantastic facts. Did you know that one drop of lotus oil on the forehead of an 80 year old woman made her look like a teenager again? Similar claims for men. The pitch to buy perfumes came after the tour. We enjoyed the entire experience.

At the Egyptian Museum we also viewed the contents of King Tut’s burial tomb, over 3500 items. So many things for life in the here and now, and in the afterlife. Chairs of every size for the growing King, even for after his death.

And then on to the Royal Mummies Hall. This was eerie, just as much from the stern armed guards, as from the Royal Mummies. Quiet! Everyone spoke, by order, in hushed tones, out of respect for the dead. This was thrilling, especially for the kids.

The Pyramids and the Egyptian Museum are sights every traveller longs to see. Inspiring, fascinating, perplexing.

Basilica Cistern in Istanbul

2010-06-28T20:28:00.004-06:00

Basilica Cistern Medussa

The subterranean Basilica Cistern in Istanbul once provided water for the Palace of Constantinople, and later for Topkapi Palace. It is thought to be an enlarged version of an original cistern built by the Emperor Constantine and then rebuilt and expanded by Emperor Justinian in 532 AD. Water travelled to this largest cistern, and to the numerous others in Constantinople, via aqueducts from woodlands 12 miles away. The cistern is an impressive archeological wonder of the Byzantine Empire.

The cavernous cistern, also called the Sunken Palace or Yerebatan Sarayi, was cool and dark, with water dripping from above when we ventured down from the hot sunny streets of Istanbul. Twelve rows of marble columns hold up the high arched ceilings, and coloured floodlights add to the intriguing aura. Carp swam in the quiet reflective waters, as we moved along the damp cement walkways. Keep walking through the cistern to the back and you will come upon the Medusa heads.

These huge amazing stone carvings sit at the base of two columns. One mossy Medusa is upside down and the other lies on its side. Where they came from is a mystery. Why are they not upright? To ward off evil spirits? To celebrate the triumph of Christianity? This, too, is a mystery.

Like many of the fantastic historic sites of Istanbul, the Basilica Cistern is within walking distance of the Blue Mosque, across the way from the Haghia Sofia in Sultanahmet. Worth seeing, be sure not to miss the Basilica Cistern.

Fort Kochi, Kathakali

2010-06-12T12:03:00.031-06:00

Make-up applications and preparations for the performance.

In Fort Cochin in Kerala on the southern tip of India, we saw a shortened version of a Kathakali presentation, a dramatic religious story told through chanting and drumming, elaborate make-up and costume, and detailed facial expressions and movement. It was fascinating, like nothing we had ever seen before. Exactly what a traveller wants.

Here's a portion of the same performance we saw, borrowed from You Tube.

Rome: Forums and Spring Flowers

2010-05-06T05:08:00.001-06:00

Thanks for visiting. Hey, leave a comment on my blog, please!

10 Tips to Pack Light: Clothing. Travel Light!

2010-05-04T19:40:00.013-06:00

1.Pack clothes you can wash in the sink and that will dry overnight. Take laundry detergent in a small plastic jar with a plastic spoon tucked in.

2.Pack clothes that don’t need ironing. Roll clothes and pack them tightly to reduce volume in your travel bag.

3.Take clothes that are lightweight and compact. Some polyesters are soft, warm and light. How much room do they take up? How much do they weigh?

4.Pack only clothes that ‘go together’. Wear all shirts with all shorts and pants. Dress appropriately for your destination.

5.Pack clothes that you can layer together for additional warmth. Think about the cumulative warmth of your clothing, instead of taking several heavier items. The shirt over the T-shirt, under the fleecy, under the Gortex.

6. Pack only clothes you really like, have worn before, and that are extremely comfortable.

7. Pack clothes comfortable for the climate you are going to. Research this. Temperature, precipitation, humidity.

8.Pack clothes with zip pockets and deep pockets. Keep money and credit cards safe. Reduce your need for a daypack or purse on daytrips. Front zip pockets on shirts are preferable.

9. Make a clothing packing list. Review. Do you really need all those clothes? Try fitting them into your bag. Perhaps you will want to buy some clothes at your destination. If so, take fewer clothes.

10. Do you need clean clothes every day? Most likely not. Take the same amount of clothes for seven weeks as you think you will need for one week, no more. Pack all the clothes you think you need and then take 1/3 out.

Melaka, Malaysia

2010-05-01T16:24:00.043-06:00

The Groom

Pictures of People from the Streets of Melaka

On the streets of Melaka, Malaysia, some of my favourite photos were of the people we came upon. I snapped all of these shots on a Sunday afternoon. On a quiet street we encountered a groom (above), preparing to be married. What a lovely moment.

Dancing Tourist Police draw a crowd

The city of Melaka is only 4 hours away from Singapore by express bus, so if you are in Singapore, consider a few days here. Melaka is a holiday destination for Singaporeans, who appreciate the cheaper prices of Malaysia.

Melaka, once an important trading port, is also a UNESCO World Heritage site and has historical, multi-cultural attractions. We were content to walk around and view temples and mosques, and the unique architecture of Melaka. There were antique shops galore and numerous stores for tourists to buy inexpensive gifts to take home.

Hereen House

Photo with a big snake in the town square

We stayed for 2 nights at the Heeren House, which is ideally located to view the old city on foot. The excellent and reasonably priced cuisine of Melaka reflects its' rich cultural heritage: Chinese, Islamic, Indian, and European. We enjoyed sitting outdoors at the Geographer Cafe, and later dined on the fabulous Melakan Portuguese dishes at the Eleven Bistro, just up the street.

Walk along the river

Making a New Year's video

Small temple

Shopping in a historic setting

Istanbul, Turkey

2010-04-17T15:29:00.144-06:00

Start the music at the end of this post....

By the Sea in Istanbul.

Along the banks of the Bosphorus sprawls the port city of Istanbul, 5th largest city in the world. This growing metropolis winds around the shores of the Golden Horn inlet and along the Sea of Marmara. The Bosporus Straight divides Europe from Asia, and Istanbul spans both continents. To the north the Bosphorus links with the Black Sea and to the south, the Marmara, which flows to the Mediterranean, via the Dardanelles. The deep natural harbours and strategic location of port Istanbul, have made this ancient city, once called Constantinople, and before that Byzantium, a centre for land and sea trade.

Yedicule

From atop 5th century fortification walls that once protected the 'old city' from land invasion, at a place called Yedikule, we viewed ships in the distance moving through the Sea of Marmara. Here, at the Fortress of Seven Towers, we saw dozens of sea freighters, transporting goods to and from Turkey and Asia, to Europe and the world. The Fortress itself, was under restoration, as were other parts of the fortification wall. We took a cab from our hotel, the Dersaadet, near the Blue Mosque, to Yedikule. The hotel staff were happy to completely make the arrangements for us to take this 'out of the way' excursion. The Dersaadet is a wonderful mid-sized hotel in a restored Ottoman wooden house.

The population of Istanbul is 12 million, with another 5 million nearby. Many Turks rely upon sea transportation to commute and sea busses carry passengers between Europe and Asia, up and down the Bosporus and around the Golden Horn. The main commuter docks are in the old city, the Sultanahmet, and are crowded and lively. They are a short walk from the Topkapi Palace, Blue Mosque, Aya Sofya, and other fabulous attractions. Street vendors set up shops on the sidewalk and food stalls serve fish sandwiches. On small boats men grill fresh fish to sell to shoppers, tourists and commuters. This is a terrific spot to see residents of Istanbul out for a stroll, enjoying the panoramic views of the city.

For a day trip, we took a ferry from Istanbul along the Bosporus to the Black Sea and stopped at the village of Anadolu Kavagi. We climbed to a medieval castle built originally by the Byzantines. From the castle, we could see the forested banks of the Black Sea. Turkey lies on the southern shore of the Black Sea. Georgia, Russia, the Ukraine, Romania, and Bulgaria border around the western and northern perimeters. We had a fresh seafood lunch in the town of Anadolu Kavagi before we headed back to Istanbul.

The Black Sea

Istanbul is one of the great cities of the world, with excellent museums and attractions, great food, interesting people and history, and a pleasing climate. It is a city on the move, with a young population.

Sufi dance in Istanbul (borrowed from Youtube)

Jewellery at the Archeological Museum in Istanbul

Vimy Ridge, France

2010-04-09T07:14:00.033-06:00

At the Canadian War Memorial, Vimy Ridge, France

We journeyed by train from Amsterdam, through Holland and Belgium, to France. First stop Arras, France, for its proximity to the Vimy Ridge Memorial, and its’ historic role in WW1. At the Vimy Ridge battle in April, 1917, Canadian Corps forces, for the first time all four divisions together, overtook German foes in a 3 day fight. Here on this ridge of farmland, in the cold deep mud, 3600 young Canadians died, over 7,000 more were wounded. Germans took huge casualties.

The Canadian War Memorial at Vimy towers over the French landscape on 250 acres of land forever given to Canada to commemorate the horrible sacrifice. We toured the underground tunnels, viewed the trenches, and walked by restricted grounds where explosives can still be found. The poignant limestone Memorial solemnly stands at the highest point on the ridge, overlooking the Doui Plains.

It has been said that Canada was ‘forged’ as a nation at Vimy, and that the ‘victory’ at Vimy Ridge was a defining moment for Canada. Certainly it was tragic for our young country. WW1, the Great War, the ’War to End All Wars’ was a horrific and senseless war where more than 60,000 Canadians died. Globally 15 million people were killed in the First World War. It was a terrible human failure, of which nothing good came and it set the stage for tensions that led up to World War Two.

After our trip to the Canadian War Memorial, we returned to Arras, and at a quiet outdoor café, we sadly tipped our glasses of Stella Artois to the ’boys’ . We noticed other tourists from Canada, Australia and New Zealand in the town. Arras was fully destroyed in WW1, as it stood right on the battle lines, and it has mostly been reconstructed, as it was before the war. It really is a lovely town , with pretty Flemish architecture. Robespierre was born here.

Arras, France

Heading underground at Vimy Ridge, France

Underground at Vimy Ridge

Underground tunnel at Vimy

The Canadian War Memorial at Vimy Ridge, France

The Vimy Pin

Montmartre, Paris

2010-04-05T20:34:00.035-06:00

Sunday Morning in Montmartre

There is always, always something to do in Paris. The city is lovely and beloved, for good reason. The art, the architecture, the museums, the people, the history…the food and wine. While the city is expensive, often the pleasures of Paris are free, you need only go outside and start walking. On every visit to Paris (well both of them) we walk and walk, with long rests at outdoor cafés for baguettes, wine and cheese. We sit and watch Paris go by, and this, too, is pleasing.

Our Sunday morning stroll in Montmartre in springtime was just fun. The busier streets of Montmartre were lined with flower shops, fruit stands and bakeries. From the sidewalk cafes, the smells of fresh croissants and morning coffees lingered. We headed up to the Basilique Sacre Coeur, climbing up through neighbourhoods where city kids played street ball in the quieter quarters.

At the top of the hill, Butte du Montmartre, in the historic church courtyard, street performers were entertaining festive tourists. We walked the treed perimeter to catch long views of Paris. Around the church, narrow village roads were crowded with people. A Napoleonic-dressed military troop, with young drummers out front, marched by. History is alive in Paris. The city is full of such surprises!

View from Sacre Coeur. See the Eiffel Tower?

An hour or so later, we descended to the lively streets of Montmartre. A jazz band had set up in the tiny square outside the Metro and everyone shared in the beat. Celebrate. The sun is shining, people are happy. The world, with all its woes, is still out there, but in Montmartre on a Sunday morning in May, you cannot escape the festivity. Just relax and enjoy.

Thanks to fantinigirl92 for the music!

Bangkok, Thailand, Thai Buddhas

2010-04-02T10:06:00.039-06:00

On the river boat

Outside the Grand Palace

Beloved Buddhas

To get to the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, we travelled by river boat down the Chao Phraya River to the Ko Ratanakosin area. These large grounds are home to the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew, where the Emerald Buddha sits, and Wat Pho, the home of the Reclining Buddha statue, as well as numerous fine Thai paintings, sculptures and historic architecture.

The Emerald Buddha is perhaps the most revered buddha statue in Thailand. ‘Emerald’ refers to the colour, and it is most likely carved of jade or jasper. The Emerald Buddha is 2 feet high and sits atop a large gold alter. We were not allowed to take pictures. Visitors sat quietly on the floor, careful not to point toes at the Emerald Buddha. The Thai Buddha was dressed in summer costume, jewels and crown.

The Reclining Buddha

Not too far away in Wat Pho is the majestic Reclining Buddha. At 46 metres long, it is the largest reclining Buddha known. It is covered in gold plate, with mother of pearl inlays, and is surrounded by other important Buddhist carvings and images. The Reclining Buddha depicts Buddha about to enter Nirvana. Like the Emerald Buddha, it is astonishingly beautiful.

Around the Reclining Buddha

The Buddhas are located on large sacred and royal grounds with stunning, colourful Thai mosaics, murals, many other Buddha statues and images, decorated spires, stuppas and buddha temples.

Be sure to watch the beautiful classical Thai dance, borrowed from Youtube, at the end of this post.

More about our trip to Thailand, this link takes to you north of Chiang Mai, to the hilltribes to see traditional cloth making of Hmong villagers.

Singapore

2010-03-26T00:47:00.037-06:00

Tour the Past in Singapore

We stopped for a few days in the city-state of Singapore on our way to and from Kerala, India. In mid- November, Singapore was seriously decked out for Christmas with blue lights and “Have a Glitzy Christmas” banners everywhere. The 3 towers under construction in the picture below are gambling hotels. Singapore wants a piece of the action.

Singapore is well organized, clean, safe, and new. Some freedoms, such as free speech, are restricted. Drug traffickers get the death penalty. Singapore law puts more people to death per capita than anywhere else in the world. On the other hand, Singapore is an economic success and its 5 million multi-cultural inhabitants enjoy a high standard of living. They seem to be content. Singapore is not easy to figure out.

Look to the Past
Singapore is so modern, but there are some great museums where you can travel back in time to learn of Singapore history.

The Asian Civilisation Museum in Singapore is a treasure, with focus on cultures that had an impact on Singapore. We spent several hours viewing displays and artefacts from China, India and southeast Asia. The exhibits are well presented, with extensive information about the culture, religion and migration of Asian peoples. We didn't expect to, but we learned lots about India, our next travel destination, in the Asian Civilisations Museum. (There are beautiful Buddha statues on display, too).

The early days of Singapore are described at the entrance to the museum -the role of the British in the creation of Singapore for the 'Empire', the immigration of Chinese workers, and the brutality of the Japanese in WWII.

The Chinatown Heritage Centre

The Singapore Chinatown Heritage Centre was also exceptional. It is in an old ‘shophouse’ in Chinatown, with realistic re-creations of the lives of Chinese immigrants to Singapore. The displays are artistically and thoughtfully presented and we left with understanding of the tremendous hardships Chinese immigrants faced in Singapore, the poverty, opium addiction, disease, the struggle to survive.

Both museums added depth to our visit to Singapore. We escaped the modernity for a few hours and saw beautiful archeological displays in the Asian Civilizations Museum. The Chinatown Heritage Centre, by delving into the recent past, provided some insights into Singapore of today.

See more about the displays at the Asian Civilisation Museum.

Lyon, France

2010-03-14T18:06:00.053-06:00

Things I loved about Lyon:

It's a great city to walk in.

Two rivers, the Rhone and the Saone, meet in Lyon. Bookfairs and cafes line the shores, and on weekends, crowds wander amongst local artisans and musicians.

Vieux Lyon has medieval architecture and narrow cobblestone streets.

Croix-Rousse is an old quarter where the silk industry once thrived.

Art. The Musee des Beaux-Arts has an exciting large collection of paintings and sculptures from all periods.

Roman History.

The Theatre Romain, built by the Romans in 15 BC, and the Musee de la Civilisation Gallo Romaine, tucked into the hillside behind the amphi-theatre were extremely interesting.

Food. Les Halles de Lyon is one of many wonderful markets in Lyon, where you can see fabulous displays of French food in all its glory. Lyon is known for its' gastronomic excellence.

A bouchon is a type of eatery unique to Lyon that specializes in pork, all parts. One of our favourite meals was at the bouchon Cafe Des Federations.

Wine (Beaujolais) is served in a 'pot', a smaller bottle or carafe. Lentils, salad, cheeses, and of course, pork, are common fare in a bouchon.

We had another delicious meal at Le Garet. Here we had a special house pear liquor and chatted with French tourists. Food is plentiful at bouchons, so go on an empty stomach.

Travel can change your daily diet. After Kerala, we crave masala dosa. From Greece it was feta cheese and olive oil. Italy, sardines on pizza, and pesto pasta. In Lyon, it was the salad, made with frisee ( or endive), hard boiled eggs, lardon (chunks of bacon) and a dressing heavy with Dijon mustard.

In Lyon, we also developed a serious romance with cheese. The fresh cheeses of France are hard to resist. Save room at the end of the meal for the cheese course.

Throughout France the cuisine was supurb.

Croix Rouse

Jasper, Canada

2010-02-09T08:29:00.076-07:00

Maligne Lake

...start up the music after the pictures.....

Jasper National Park, Canada

Summer or winter, Jasper National Park in the Canadian Rocky Mountains is spectacular and dramatic.

Last winter we drove from Edmonton, Alberta to Jasper National Park for a weekend holiday. What a treat to cross country ski in such incredible surroundings. We headed for frozen Pyramid Lake, just a few minutes drive from the town of Jasper and skied on set tracks around the entire lake in about 25 minutes. It was lonely, wild and beautiful, a perfect trail for a beginner skier, too.

Ski or skate at Pyramid Lake

The Park has numerous hiking trails, some easy and others more challenging. You can walk or hike around the town of Jasper, or drive out to the more remote trails. Maligne Canyon (below), Edith Cavelle Glacier, and Athabasca Falls are popular.

Hike near Maligne Canyon

Campground at Wapiti

We tent camp in Jasper Park campgrounds in summer, usually at Wapiti, on the banks of the Athabasca River. When you are outdoors all the time, in the fresh mountain air, it's relaxing yet envigorating at the same time. Jasper National Park has amongst the best camp sites in the world. At Wapiti, it is not uncommon for herds of elk to pass through the campgrounds, within a few feet of the tent.

In summer the Miette Hot Springs, on the east side of the Park, are open. These very hot pools are craddled amongst the mountains. We've seen bears and foxes on the winding mountain road up to Miette. A soak in the hot waters after a few hours of hiking, then back to the campsite for dinner cooked over the fire...and out come the stars with the stillness of the night, it's magical.

I count myself lucky every time I visit Jasper National Park. The mountain scenery and dramatic wilderness are inspiring, but there is also so much to do. Tour Maligne Canyon, visit the Columbia Icefields or the Athabasca Falls. Walk, hike or bike, go fishing, canoe or kayak, soak or swim or just spend a few hours in the friendly town of Jasper.

With timeless, almost sacred beauty, Jasper National Park is a treasure.

Rent a canoe on Maligne Lake. There is also a tour boat.

On the mighty Athabasca River, view from Wapitii campground

At the beach, the water is clear and cold

Athabasca Falls

Hike through the forest

Glaciers, Edith Cavelle

Thanks to Brandi Carlile for the music....

Tips for tent camping in Jasper National Park:

-put all food and cooking equipment away in a fully closed vehicle
-only have food out when you are cooking or eating
-no food, cosmetics or soaps in the tent ever
-be sure your tent is protected from rain with a full tent fly
-nights are cool, so have warm sleeping gear

Elk pass through the campground in the late afternoon.

Munnar, Kerala

2010-01-30T10:29:00.031-07:00

Munnar Tea Plantation

The Kerala state, in the southern tip of India, sits just above the equator. Even in November most of Kerala is hot. After 5 warm days in Fort Cochin on the west coast, we travelled up into the hills of the Western Ghats to Munnar where the air was cooler.

Although the distance was only 150 kms, or so, the road trip took 5 hours on the 2 lane highway. That’s India. Our driver, Josie, kept his white Ambassador moving and passing, swerving by tuk tuks and cyclists, through busy towns with crowded colourful festivals, past cows and carts, churches, mosques and temples, and even a festival elephant. Josie stopped briefly to show us rubber trees, cardoman, coffee, monkeys and waterfalls. Kerala is lush and fertile and the people are friendly, hardworking and traditional.

The area around Munnar is tea country. We stayed in a lodge, the Blackberry Hills, at the top of a mountain overlooking bright green tea plantations in the valleys. The panoramic view was splendid. We spent much of our 3 days on the balcony. The air was fresh with tea, the view - astonishingly beautiful, and each morning unusual soft music played from the plantation village in the distance. Behind us were tall woods with wild flowers, morning glory vines, herbs, coffee, birds of all kinds, some we recognized, some not.

We walked for hours through the forest, and came upon men and women working in the tea estates high up in the hills. This looked like backbreaking work, but the natural setting was fantastic. Older folks relaxed nearby, minding pre-schoolers, ready with mid-day refreshments for the workers.

At the lodge the Indian curry cuisine was delicious, and we even managed to get a bottle of local blackberry wine. Most other guests were young honeymooners from Mumbai or Delhi. The beautiful hills around Munnar are known throughout India to be an ideal spot to begin a marriage.

Munnar, India

When Alberta is freezing cold, we can escape to memories of heavenly Munnar. It was a long drive up but in all ways the journey and the destination were tremendously interesting and unique. Loved it.

Kerala, highest literacy rate in India, only freely elected communist government in the world.

Here's a Globe and Mail article about Kerala by Jim Stanford.

Varkala, Kerala

2009-12-15T23:10:00.025-07:00

The Arabian Sea rhythmically rolls in on big white waves that span the length of Varkala beach. Travellers from India, and increasingly from other parts of the globe, visit the shores and cliffs of Varkala for the refreshing beauty, the long sandy beach, and for the healing waters attributed to this holy sight by those who worship Vishnu.

We stayed 5 nights at the Varkala Marine Palace, one of the few hotels on the beach, and dined here too. Fresh seafood prepared tandoori or masala, tasty thorans, friendly staff and wonderful views - why not? Here we totally relaxed, read the local papers, and watched all that was happening on the beach. Birds and sea, fishermen and their boats, women in bright, pretty sarees, yoga practitioners, tourists in search of dinner - the beach was full of life! Indian families and friends gathered for hours where the water meets the sand, not to swim, but to enjoy the sea breeze, and the pleasing sunsets.

Tides can be dangerous at Varkala and lifeguards with whistles warned kids and crowds to be careful. Further north, below the town, were safer swimming waters where tourists from around the world tackled the waves and sunbathed - in typical Western swimwear, themselves a tourist attraction for those used to more modest attire.

Along the top rim of the cliffs at Varkala are shops, internet cafes, restaurants, yoga schools, ayurvedic care and even some hotels offering dental surgery. Behind this strip lies the town of Varkala, home to about 45,000. It was sunny and hot in Varkala in late November. I had some light clothes sewn up for me on the spot at a tourist tailor shop. Cotton-linen pants and a tunic. A perfect fit.

We didn’t do much in Varkala, but the days flew by. A masala dosa* for breakfast, maybe a walk up into town to check the internet, an afternoon dip in the sea, to the restaurant to watch the sunset until dark and then under the mosquito net and fans until morning. The soothing rhythm of the waves, the bright colours of happy people against the soft blue of the Arabian Sea, Varkala, India is like a dream now.

Shops

Here's a link to a video about Kerala's Worker's Co-operative Coffee Shops. http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/video/2010/apr/01/india-coffee-house-kerala

Lobster purchase in the restaurant

The catch

Posing for the picture

Syros, Greece

2009-11-05T21:02:00.009-07:00

A Glimpse of Greek Life

On the beautiful Greek island of Syros, in the Cyclades, we enjoyed a glimpse of Greek family life and culture. We stayed in the port town of Ermoupolis, a hub of economic activity in the Cyclades. During the evenings the magnificent town square was full of children racing around, teens hanging out, and adults of all generations visiting and chatting. On Saturday night the town pumped it up with popular Greek bands. Families dined , danced, played and mingled until after dark.

Picturesque neighbourhoods grace the hills that rise from the town square in Ermoupolis. We took a taxi up to one neighbourhood, the quiet medieval Catholic settlement of Ano Syros where, amidst the chalk white houses on tiny, winding alleyways, we found a 13th Century Church, Agios Georgios. We saw splendid views of the town, the port, the sea and surrounding islands on our hike back down to the main square.

Syros has superb cuisine. Many of the narrow streets of Ermoupolis are home to family run restaurants that dish out delicious local specialities. We loved the baked peppers, stuffed with feta cheese, and have tried to re-create the recipe at home. The Greek salads had capers, a tasty addition. The wine was refreshing and was often offered free to repeat customers.

At the Hotel Hermes we had a room with a balcony that directly overlooked the sea. The bright blue sky, the deep blue Aegean and the sound of lapping waves on the pebbles below was breathtaking. Siros, one of the loveliest Greek islands.

Peppers with feta, just like we had in Syros....

Arles, France

2009-10-29T14:03:00.014-06:00

The van Gogh Trail

Near the Van Gogh Cafe

From Avignon, we travelled by train through Provence to Arles, the town where Vincent Van Gogh painted some of his most beloved works. We had started our holiday to France several weeks before in Amsterdam where the inspiring Van Gogh Museum led us to Arles to learn more about Vincent, his life and his art. Did you know that Van Gogh sold only one painting in his difficult life? He was only 37 years old when he died. In Arles, I was thrilled to stroll the Van Gogh Trail, where I stood at some of the very spots where Vincent Van Gogh painted. We looked over the Grand Rhone River where Van Gogh created "Starry Night Over the Rhone". We stopped for a bite to eat in the square believed to be the place where Van Gogh painted “Café Terrace at Night”. It was a warm, sunny day in late April and like much of France, there was an air of celebration here.

You can easily walk around charming Arles and find other worthy sights. We sought out the exceptional Roman Amphitheatre, Les Arenes, which was built almost 2,000 years ago by the Romans, and is still used today for events such as bullfighting (no bulls are killed). In the old courtyard near the Eglise St- Trophime, a 12 century church, we were surprised by enthusiastic equestrians.

After a few hours of enjoyable traipsing around Arles we went back to the train station to discover we had an hour or so wait for the return train to Avignon. We had to find a nearby outdoor café, sip wine and watch the pleasant bustle around us, and talk about the wonderful time we had in Arles.

Arles, in beautiful southern France, a place to return to.

Travel Advice

2009-10-21T03:45:00.018-06:00

Le Pont d'Avignon

Save Now for a Lifetime of Travel

There is so much to see. Here's a few ideas to help you save money for travel.

1) In your day to day life, take public transportation as opposed to owning and operating a car. In the long run this can save thousands of dollars. Can you carpool? Do you need two cars in your family? Reduce your daily transportation expenditures and directly save this money for travel instead.

2) Keep housing costs down and keep your housing needs modest. The big mortgage can occupy your income fully for years. If you want travel to be a major theme in your life, don't get trapped by high housing costs.

3) Save, don't spend. Just don't spend any more money on things, especially big things, you don't really need or already have enough of. Wear things out. Make do with older things.

4) Create a fund or account for travel and regularly contribute to it. Put money aside every payday and adjust your day to day spending accordingly. Some sort of automatic deduction into a special account is ideal, because you don't have to do anything to save, and you don't have this money readily available to spend. Save up the money for your next trip - don't borrow it, and you will enjoy the travel even more!

No matter how far off, always have a future trip in mind to plan and read about. This will keep you going.

Cefalu, Sicily, Italy

2009-10-20T05:03:00.028-06:00

Get in the mood and start the music at the end of the post!

Plaza

A highlight of our trip to Sicily was a visit to the 'walled' fishing village of Cefalu, which sits at the base of a mass of rock, on the north coast. We climbed the rock via a rock staircase to a 4th century BC 'Temple to Diana' and saw great views. We still talk about the incredible chocolate croissants we had in the lively, friendly town square, Piazza del Duomo, framed at one end by a 12th century church.

Medieval laundromat

The medieval 'laundromat', where a stream to wash clothes flows through the interior of an arched building, must have been handy for medieval Sicilians.

We stayed in a small Cefalu hotel in the old part of town on a narrow street, and kids played ball outside. In the newer part of town there is a popular beach.

Great food and delicious Sicilian wine all made Cefalu one of our all-time favourite travel spots. Cefalu, it's wonderful. For those who like train travel, we travelled by train to Cefalu, from Taormina, Sicily.